Gerard Craft isn't St. Louis' best chef because he might serve you bacon ice cream. That just makes him a badass. No, Craft is St. Louis' best because he's likely to pair that bacon ice cream with that hippest of hip meat cuts, pork belly, to a create a dish that isn't simply a clever joke or a lovely presentation — though of course it's both those things — but almost indescribably awesome, sweet and savory and smoky and unlike anything you've eaten in this town. If the pork belly with bacon ice cream isn't available, close your eyes and point at the menu. Whatever you choose will blow your mind. Craft and his kitchen staff approach each dish, whether classic braised short ribs or a trendy cider "air" atop scallops, with the ideal balance of rigor and playfulness and — what's that? You're still hung up on that bacon ice cream? What does it taste like? Well, a woman of our very close acquaintance says it's like the smell of burning leaves in autumn. She got engaged later on the night she ate it, but she still talks about her meal there.